Work Boot Care: Cleaning, Conditioning and Resoling

Good work boots aren't cheap, and the difference between a pair that lasts one year and one that lasts several is often just a few minutes of care a week. Dirt, water, sweat and chemicals all break leather down. Cleaning, drying and conditioning slow that down a lot. Here's a simple routine for leather work boots, and how to know when a resole beats buying new.

Every Day: Knock Off the Dirt and Let Them Dry

• Brush off mud and dust at the end of the shift with a stiff brush. Dried mud pulls moisture out of leather and cracks it.
• Pull out the insoles and let the boots air out. Sweat soaks into the lining every day.
• Dry them at room temperature, away from heaters, vents and direct sun. Stuffing them with newspaper or using cedar boot trees helps pull moisture out and hold the shape.
• Rotate pairs if you can. A boot that dries completely between wears lasts longer and smells better.

Never dry leather boots next to a heater or with a hair dryer. Fast heat dries out the leather, makes it brittle and can weaken the glue in the sole.

Every Few Weeks: Clean Them Properly

1. Remove the laces so you can reach the tongue and eyelets.
2. Brush off loose dirt, including the welt seam around the sole.
3. Wipe with a damp cloth. For heavier grime, use a leather cleaner or saddle soap with a little water, working it in small circles, then wipe it off.
4. Let them dry completely at room temperature before conditioning.

If your boots get exposed to chemicals, salt, concrete or manure, clean them sooner. These are especially hard on leather and stitching.

Conditioning: Keep the Leather Alive

Leather is skin, and like skin it dries out and cracks without moisture. Condition your boots when the leather starts to look dry, pale or dull. For many people that's every month or two. In harsh conditions, like heat, water or chemicals, it may be more often.

• Apply a thin, even coat of leather conditioner with a cloth or your fingers, paying attention to the creases where cracks start.
• Let it soak in, then wipe off any excess.
• Use the product your boot maker recommends if they list one. Some oils darken leather, and heavy oils can soften it more than you want.

Don't over-condition. More isn't better. Too much product can make leather soft and floppy and attract dirt.

Waterproofing

Many work boots have a waterproof membrane inside, but the leather outside still soaks up water, gets heavy and dries out over time. A wax-based waterproofing product applied after conditioning helps water bead up and roll off. Pay extra attention to the seams and the welt. Reapply when water stops beading on the surface.

Suede and Roughout Boots

Suede and roughout leather need different care. Don't use regular creams or oils on them unless the product says it's made for suede, because they'll mat and darken the nap. Use a suede brush to clean and lift the nap, and a suede-safe waterproofing spray.

Laces, Insoles and the Small Stuff

• Replace frayed laces before they snap at the worst possible moment. Keep a spare pair in the truck.
• Replace worn insoles. Flattened insoles mean less support and more foot pain.
• Check the stitching around the sole and at stress points. A cobbler can often fix a loose seam cheaply before it becomes a big problem.

Resole or Replace?

If your boots are welted, a cobbler can usually remove the worn sole and stitch on a new one, often for a good deal less than a new pair of quality boots. It's worth it when:

• The uppers are still in good shape, with no deep cracks or tears in the leather
• The boots still fit well and are comfortable
• The sole is worn down, slick or separating, but the welt is intact

Replacing makes more sense when the leather is cracked through, the safety toe is exposed or damaged, the boot no longer gives the support you need, or it's a cemented boot that wasn't built to be resoled. If your boots have a safety toe that took a serious impact, replace them. The protection may be compromised even if it looks fine.

Don't wait until you're walking on the midsole. Resoling is easier, and sometimes only possible, before the damage reaches the welt.

A Simple Care Schedule

Shopping for a new pair? Read how to tell a quality work boot from a good logo, or browse all of our guides.